Artichokes
by Paula Gray

artichoke recipes

"Are you going to eat that?"

I grew up eating artichokes, and when friends came to dinner, I’d invariably be asked that question. Artichokes, strange looking green things, are an extremely tasty, though perhaps unusual, vegetable. Their armor-like appearance or their prickly-tipped leaves may be intimidating, but they are easy to prepare and fun to eat.

When you eat an artichoke you are actually eating the bud of a warmth-loving, three-to-five-foot-tall thistle plant. The artichoke has the distinction of being the only flower that is actually cultivated to be eaten. We eat the base, or heart, which is an outgrowth of the stem, and the surrounding protective outer leaves. The part we call the choke is actually a mass of undeveloped, immature flowerets, which, if allowed to develop, would turn a beautiful violet-blue.

The most commonly grown artichoke is the globe variety, but there are others. In French Provence, smaller, purplish, spindle-shaped artichokes are delicate enough to be eaten raw. Italy offers numerous varieties, including extremely small ones that are preserved in oil. The Italians and French, by the way, eat many more artichokes per person than we do here.

Forget the Wine
Artichokes contain a chemical called cynarin, which in many people affects the taste buds by enhancing sweet flavors. It will spoil the taste of wine but curiously, makes plain water seem deliciously sweet. Dave Bridges, the Co-op resident wine expert, had this to say about the pairing of wine and artichokes.

"Artichokes... the troubled vegetable with few friends in the wine world. While we adhere to the adage that there are no rules when it comes to Food and Wine matching, artichokes are one vegetable group that does deserve a bad rap in the culinary realm. By virtue of some funky, very individualistic flavors, characteristics, and chemistry, the spectrum of agreeable or complimentary wines are slim. We've found that, in a pinch, some California Sauvignon Blancs work in addition to some of New Zealand’s finer Sauvignon Blanc.

The real ace in the hole is to be found in the Loire Valley of France. Sancerre, that wonderful Sauvignon Blanc-based wine of this region, can hold up to the astringent greeny flavors of the artichoke. Indeed, a good Pouilly Fume, Sancerre, or other Loire Sauvignon Blanc embodies many of these same flavors!

So, if in need, look to the Loire for that match to the artichoke!"

History
Native to the Mediterranean region, the artichoke is a descendant of the cardoon, the uncultivated form. Artichokes probably were first popular in Italy, although not with everyone. Goethe remarked scornfully in his book Travels Through Italy that in that country "peasants eat thistles." Pliny the Elder claimed that artichokes were "the most monstrous production of the earth; even animals avoid them."

Yet, once you get the hang of trimming and cooking them, eating artichokes may become a habit, as it did for Catherine de’ Medici, wife of Henry II. She is credited with bringing the artichoke to France from her native Tuscany.

Unfortunately for her, during the Renaissance it was considered the height of impropriety for a young woman to eat a vegetable claimed to be an aphrodisiac. She gained notoriety due to her scandalous fondness for them.

In the New World, early plantings were made by French settlers in Louisiana and by the Spaniards on the coast of California. Virtually all artichokes grown in the US today come from a California town south of San Francisco called Castorville, the self-proclaimed "Artichoke Center of the World."

Choosing
"In Italy, where the artichoke is known as carciofo, old women at the market stalls usually rub two together before they make their selection for their shopping bags. If the artichokes make a proper little squeak on contact, they are deemed fresh. If they are muto (silent), the ladies simply pass them by." —Bert Greene (Greene on Greens)

Take a tip from the little old Italian ladies, and choose artichokes which feel full, compact, and heavy for their size, with an even green color. Avoid those that are shriveled or have a loose leaf formation. Sometimes fall-and winter-grown artichokes will have a slight mottling on the leaves where they have been nipped by cooler temperatures, but this will not affect the quality. Store unwashed artichokes in a plastic bag in the refrigerator if you must; they are best if used soon after purchase.

Preparing
To prepare whole artichokes for poaching, pull off the lower, outer petals. Trim the stem to form a flat base so that the artichokes will stand upright. Cut off one-fourth to one-third of the artichoke leaves straight across the top. Rub the cut surfaces right away with lemon juice to prevent browning. Stand the artichokes on their flat bases in a non-aluminum pot with about 2 inches of water. If desired, you can flavor the water with lemon juice and seasonings. Cover, and gently simmer the artichokes for 20 to 30 minutes. Drain.

Eating
The traditional way to eat a whole artichoke is with your hands. Remove the outer leaves one at a time, dip them into a sauce or flavored butter, and draw the wider portion of the leaf through the teeth to scrape the fleshy part into your mouth. Discard the leaves onto a spare plate. (You’ll be amazed at how quickly the "discard pile" grows.) Once all the leaves have been eaten, you’ll come to the lighter colored, pinkish cone of inner leaves, which hides the fuzzy choke. Gently twist the cone of leaves to remove it. With the tip of a teaspoon, scrape off the fuzzy part to reveal the heart. If you look closely at the hollowed, firm surface you’ll see the pebbly pattern left behind marking where each individual flower petal was anchored. Now you’ve reached the prize — the rich, succulent, artichoke heart, or flower base. It is the sweetest part of the artichoke plant, and is entirely edible. Cut it into bite-size pieces and enjoy the wonderful flavor.

artichoke recipes

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