From the Pantry
by Paula Gray

Mint

"It is the destiny of mint to be crushed," claims food author and historian, Waverley Root.

According to Greek mythology, mint and its genus, Mentha, take their name from the nymph Minthe, who was seduced by Pluto and turned into a plant by his jealous wife, Persephone, who then trod Minthe into the ground. Pluto, however, turned her into a desirable herb knowing people would appreciate her for years to come. For centuries, the familiar plant has been used to perfume homes, to adorn athletes, to aid digestion, and to sweeten the breath.

While mint’s origin is the Mediterranean region, mint is a commonly used ingredient in kitchens all over the world. Middle Eastern and Asian cuisines use mint to complement the pungent spices of their dishes. A sugary blend of mint and green tea is the preferred beverage in Morocco, tabbouleh with bulgur and plenty of fresh mint is a classic Lebanese salad, and Vietnamese spring rolls feature fresh mint inside their papery wraps. The sweet, sharp flavor is popular in sauces accompanying lamb on British tables, and in the signature drink of the American south, the mint julep. Mint makes an attractive garnish for fruit compotes or salads.

In addition to its culinary uses, mint’s essential oil is used to flavor many familiar products such as gum, chocolate, liqueurs, toothpaste, medicines, cigarettes, and as a fragrance in cosmetics.
Because mint is relatively easy to grow, many cooks establish a patch of their own in a corner of the garden, where a watchful eye must be kept on the plant’s overly enthusiastic, invasive growth habit.

Of the more than 30 varieties of mint, the two most widely used are spearmint and peppermint. Peppermint (Mentha piperata) has bright green leaves and purple tinged stems, contains menthol, and is the stronger-tasting of the two. Spearmint (Mentha spicata) has shiny, gray-green or true green leaves, and a milder scent and flavor. It is the most reliable of the mint varieties. While they are not as hardy, other more unusual flavors of mint can sometimes be found in our area, such as cocoa mint with its subtle chocolate presence, and the "fruit" mints — orange, pineapple, and apple.

At the Co-op, you’ll find fresh spearmint in the Produce Department. It bruises easily and should be handled with care. Choose leaves that are evenly colored with no sign of wilting. Fresh mint can be stored with stems down in a glass of water in the refrigerator. Mint is also available dried, as an extract, and as an essential oil.

Although the flavors complement one another, fresh mint unfortunately turns black when paired with acidic foods such as tomatoes or lemons. The flavor evaporates quickly when exposed to heat, so it is best to add fresh mint at the very last minute of the cooking process.

Recipes

Fettuccine with Peas, Green Onions, and Mint

Peppermint Butter Wafers

Tabbouleh

Tomato Mint Vinaigrette

Zucchini and Carrots with Fresh Mint

Fettuccine with Peas, Green Onions, and Mint

Serves 4

A springtime dish that features brilliant green, sugary little peas and new onions. The pasta is tossed in saffron-tinted butter for a brightly colored, creamy finishing touch.

Small pinch of saffron threads or saffron powder

6 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided

6 green onions, trimmed and cut into rings

Salt, to taste

1-1/2 lbs. fresh peas, shelled, or 1-1/2 cups frozen peas

Water

1 Tbs. chopped mint leaves

3/4 lb. fresh fettuccine

Freshly ground black pepper

Freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese

Soak the saffron in a very small bowl with 2 tablespoons hot water while you prepare the sauce.

Combine 4 tablespoons of the butter, the green onions, and salt to taste in a medium sauté pan. Cook over low heat until the onions are tender. Add the peas and 1/2 cup water, and cook over low heat until the peas are tender, stirring gently from time to time. Stir in the mint and keep warm. Combine the remaining butter and the saffron water in a warm pasta serving bowl.

Meanwhile, cook the fettuccine in abundant salted boiling water. Drain, leaving water dripping from the strands. Place the pasta in the serving dish, add the sauce, and gently toss. Serve sprinkled with pepper and Parmesan cheese.

—Verdura, by Viana LaPlace

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Peppermint Butter Wafers

Makes about 2 dozen

Serve these crisp, delicate wafers with tea or ice cream or as a refreshing after-dinner mint.

1/2 cup sweet unsalted butter

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh peppermint leaves

1/2 cup sugar

1 egg, lightly beaten

Pinch of salt

3/4 cup unbleached white or whole wheat pastry flour

Preheat the oven to 375¼F. Cream the butter with the fresh mint, then let stand at room temperature for 1 hour to suffuse the butter with mint flavor. Cream the sugar into the butter and mint. Add the beaten egg, and mix until well blended. Add the salt and flour, and mix just until the batter is smooth. Drop batter by teaspoonful onto a lightly oiled cookie sheet, 2 inches apart. The batter will spread and flatten as it bakes.

Bake for 10 to 15 minutes in the center of the oven, until the wafers are light brown at the edges.

If desired, place a small piece of semisweet chocolate in the center of each unbaked cookie for a classic mint-chocolate combination.

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Tabbouleh

Serves 8

This is the classic Lebanese dish, featuring plenty of colorful green mint and tart fresh lemon juice.

1 cup medium bulgur

1 cup mint, finely chopped

Green ends of 6 scallions, chopped

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced

2 cups parsley, finely chopped

3 medium tomatoes, cored and roughly chopped

Juice of 1 lemon

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Pita Bread

Put the bulgur in a large bowl. Add enough cold water to cover it. The bulgur will swell and soften. This should take about 30 minutes. Drain in a strainer, pressing out as much water as you can with a wooden spoon.

In a serving bowl, toss together the bulgur with the mint, scallions, parsley, tomatoes, and lemon juice. Add the olive oil and toss again lightly. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with pita bread wedges.

—Adapted from Mediterranean Cooking, by Paula Wolfert

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Tomato Mint Vinaigrette

Makes about 2 cups

Tomato and mint have a wonderful affinity for each other.

1 ripe tomato, peeled and seeded

1/2 cup chopped fresh mint

1 shallot, chopped

2 Tbs. red wine vinegar

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 cup olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

In a food processor, purée the tomato until smooth. Add mint, shallot, vinegar, lime juice, mustard, and garlic. Process for 15 seconds. With the machine running, slowly pour the olive oil through the feed tube, and process until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate.

—Joy of Cooking

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Zucchini and Carrots with Fresh Mint

Serves 4

2 Tbs. butter

3 carrots, trimmed and scraped, cut into quarter-inch rounds

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

2 zucchini, ends trimmed, cut into quarter-inch rounds

1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint

Heat the butter in a heavy skillet and add the carrots, salt, and pepper.

Cover and cook 3 to 5 minutes. Add the zucchini and cover. Shake the skillet occasionally. Cook 4 to 5 minutes or until all the vegetables are crisp-tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with mint.

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