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From
the Pantry: Cinnamon
By
Paula Gray
You probably have cinnamon in your pantry now. Whether in the form
of distinctive stubby tightly-rolled sticks, deliciously aromatic
ground powder, or mixed with sugar for sprinkling on warm buttered
toast, this most familiar spice finds its way into kitchens of almost
every cuisine.
History
Cinnamon’s history is a long one. In China, recorded use goes
as far back as 2800 BC. Because of its preservative and antiseptic
qualities, Egyptians mixed cinnamon into their embalming powder.
Asians have burned cinnamon as incense in temple ceremonies for
centuries. In Biblical times, it was commonly listed as an ingredient
in oils used to anoint the body. Ancient Greeks enjoyed the sweetness
of cinnamon in this way, too, and also used cinnamon to flavor wine.
Imported only from Ceylon, the spice was difficult to get and very
expensive; consequently only the very rich could enjoy it. Nero
burned a year’s worth of it on his murdered wife’s funeral
pyre to show the depth of his loss.
Cultivation
Cinnamon is grown on commercial plantations. The branches of 3-year
old trees are removed and vertical slices are made down both sides
of each branch. The bark is peeled off in half sections and left
to dry. After a few days, the outer bark is then scraped away. As
any moisture remaining in the inner bark evaporates completely,
the pieces curl inward, forming a tubular "quill."
Varieties
While there are over 100 species of cinnamon trees with the characteristic
flavor and aromatic signature, there are two varieties used mainly
for commercial use:
Cinnamomun zylanticum — Native to Ceylon, this is the "true"
cinnamon. The spice is light brown or tan, extremely aromatic, with
a delicate cinnamon-y taste. Cinnamon sticks (quills) form one tight
continuous curl. It is much more expensive and harder to find than…
Cinnamomun aromaticum — Grown in southeast
Asia, the bark of this tree is called "cassia," a substitute
for "true" cinnamon. It has a sharp, strong, less subtle
taste, and in ground form is a dark red color. Less expensive, it
is widely used commercially and is sometimes mixed with Ceylon cinnamon
in ground form. The quills of the cassia tree curl inward from both
sides like a scroll.
Uses
Cinnamon is a common ingredient in many sweets, pastries, pies,
breads, and other baked goods. Hot and cold breakfast cereals come
alive with a sprinkling of cinnamon. Sticks are used to stir and
flavor hot beverages, especially coffee, hot chocolate, and cider.
Cinnamon is a key ingredient of the Indian spice mix garam masala,
a blend of dry-roasted herbs and spices. Cinnamon is used in many
savory chicken and lamb dishes from the Middle East.
In the pharmaceutical world, cinnamon flavoring
is added to toothpaste, gum, and dental floss. Around the home,
the warm, woodsy, pleasant fragrance is added to candles, potpourri,
and air fresheners. The aroma of cinnamon is said to reduce stress
and to have a reviving, uplifting effect on mood.
Purchase small amounts of ground cinnamon or cinnamon
sticks at any one time, and store in a dry, dark place.
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