Making a Difference
by Elizabeth Ferry

Value vs. Cost:
The Value of Locally Grown Food

"Think in terms of value rather than bargain when you shop for locally grown food." That was the advice of chef and cookbook author Deborah Madison when she addressed members of Vermont Fresh Network in Shelburne, Vermont in June. Vermont Fresh Network links restaurateurs with local farmers and the food they grow.

"Value is present in many forms," Madison reflected. "It’s in the variety of flavors, the freshness of the food, and in the relationship between farmers and consumers. Buying local food is an investment in farmland and a way of life. And, as the relationship between farmer and consumer grows, the emphasis on price alone diminishes."

As one who works with food professionally, Madison has had considerable experience with the price of food. "Many people ask me, ‘How can you afford to use local food?’ I give them this example: When I buy a case of locally grown lettuce, I consistently use 97 per cent of it. But for lettuce that travels 1,000 miles or more to my kitchen, the useable amount drops to 60 or 70 percent. Though I pay less for the commercially grown lettuce, I face the hidden costs of waste and the additional time it takes to prepare it."

Local Food at the Co-op
The Co-op’s Produce Departments carry a selection of seasonal fruits and vegetables from 17 Upper Valley growers. Quality, freshness, and supporting the local economy are values that Produce Merchandiser Tony White names when he speaks of local produce.

"With Upper Valley produce, you know where your food is coming from," says Tony. "Take lettuce from Crossroad Farm, for example. I know that it is immediately washed and refrigerated after picking, and delivered to the Co-op the next day. It’s fresh. The flavor and quality are there."
Tony works with local farmers to develop high standards and a fair price. "Consumers want a zucchini that is eight to nine inches long, not twelve or fourteen. Our growers can meet that standard." Combine the right size with varieties selected for flavor and harvested frequently for freshness, and you have an added value for consumers.

Fair pricing is also very important to Tony. "One of our strawberry growers wasn’t sure how many quarts of berries he could deliver to the Co-op this year," he recounts. "The issue was labor and what would be attractive to pickers in this job market. We were able to come up with a number that was favorable to the grower, the picker, and the consumer. The fruit costs a little more, but the product is superior. And it keeps farming in the Upper Valley."

Local Food at Home
The short trip between field and table contributes to the nutritional value of local food. Local food also lasts longer and retains its flavor because it is fresh. And one additional benefit: it can take less time to prepare. "Cook the food simply," Chef Madison advised. "Let it speak for itself."

August is the high season for summer fruits and vegetables in the Upper Valley. Watch for displays, recipes, and tasting opportunities from the Co-op’s Education Department suggesting ways to experience the value local produce at its best.

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