Whats Cooking? Francophile Cuisine
by Paula Gray
French Recipes
Other "What's
Cooking?" articles
This summer, I served as mentor to Rebecca Hutchins, a Frances
C. Richmond Middle School extern who spent time at the Co-op under
the auspices of the Upper Valley Business and Education Partnership
(see accompanying article.)
As educators, our mutual goal is to educate our audiences in a
fun, interesting, and engaging way. She wanted to prepare a unit
on the cuisine of French-speaking countries around the world, and
I was excited to find someone who spoke French fluently, liked to
cook, and saw the benefits of sharing this information with our
Co-op customers. A French teacher, and a "foodie", Rebeccas
enthusiasm for the French language and cuisine is contagious, and
I know that her students will truly benefit from the materials she
has assembled for them. We will too, for her UVBEP project work
will be showcased here at the Co-op.
Armed with an enormous, unorganized stack of "saved recipes,"
and using Internet access here at the Co-op, Rebecca began her research
by identifying traditional recipes and the stories behind them from
French-speaking countries around the world including parts of Canada,
the U.S., France, Belgium, Switzerland, The Antilles, and North
Africa. Then came the arduous task of selecting just a few recipes
from each place. Her kitchen was busy this summer as she tested
several of the dishes at home. The final recipe selections have
been assembled into a brochure, and we have planned a special tasting
party at the Lebanon Co-op on November 3, so shoppers can sample
some of the recipes.
Another aspect of Rebeccas project is an in-store educational
display of the information collected during her research. This includes
interesting and unique recipe ingredients, the recipes, a glossary
of cooking terms and ingredients, a game that matches the country
to the recipe, and a map of the countries featured in the recipes.
The display will also include "realia," items to
give realism to the display such as fabric from Provence. This display
will be duplicated in Rebeccas classroom as a focal point
of her unit on Francophile Cuisine.
As an unexpected benefit of Rebeccas externship, she has
agreed to teach (in French!) an evening cooking class at the Co-op
this fall. Here you can try some of her recipes yourself.
French Recipes
Creamed Endive Soup
Upside Down
Apple Tart
Chicken
and Sausage Gumbo
Melted Cheese
with Boiled Potatoes
Chicken
Flavored with Limes
La Belgique: La Soupe à la Scarole
(Belgium: Creamed Endive Soup)
Serves 4
The Belgians call the endive "White Gold." Select endives
with smooth, tightly-closed white leaves and yellow tips.
2 Belgian endives, cored
1 white onion, diced
1 garlic clove, diced
2 Tbs. butter
2 large potatoes, peeled and diced
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup milk or cream
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped chives
Dill sprigs for garnish
Mince the Belgian endives, reserving a few small leaves for garnish.
Sauté the onion, garlic, and minced Belgian endives in the
butter for three minutes. Add the potatoes and chicken broth and
simmer for about fifteen minutes or until the potatoes are soft.
Put mixture in a blender or food processor and process until smooth.
Add the milk, salt, and pepper, and blend. Serve hot or cold. Garnish
with the small Belgian endive leaves, chives, and dill.
Belgian Endive Marketing Board
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La France: Tarte Tatin
(France: Upside Down Apple Tart)
Serves 8
How does a dish become legend? During the 1850s, Stephanie and
Caroline Tatin built and operated the Hotel-Terminus Tatin. When
they sold the hotel 50 years later, they left behind the fame of
their rustic apple tart. According to the legend, one day Caroline
was preparing an apple tart. She had cooked the apples in butter
and sugar and, in haste, turned the mixture into a pie tin without
the bottom piecrust dough. Choosing not to redo her steps, she improvised
by placing the dough on top of the cooked apples. She baked the
pie, removed it from the oven, and turned the tart over, creating
la tarte renversée.
Pastry
1-1/3 cup all-purpose flour
10 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut in small pieces
1/4 cup superfine sugar
1 egg, beaten
In a large bowl, combine all-purpose flour and butter with a pastry
blender until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in sugar. Add
egg and mix well. Knead dough in bowl until dough clings together.
Form dough into a disk shape. Wrap and refrigerate while preparing
topping.
Topping
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1/2 cup + 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
2 lbs. cooking apples, peeled, cored, and thickly sliced
Grated zest of 1 lemon
In a large, heavy, ovenproof skillet, melt butter and sugar. Arrange
apple slices by overlapping them in 2 layers of concentric circles
over butter mixture in skillet. Sprinkle with lemon zest. Cook over
medium-high heat until the sugar starts to caramelize and turns
golden brown when bubbling up around sides of skillet. Remove pan
from heat.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. On a lightly floured surface, roll
out pastry about 1/4-inch thick in a circle the same size as the
top inside edge of skillet. Trim edges evenly. Fit pastry over apples
in skillet, pressing down lightly. Place the skillet on baking sheet
and bake for 35 to 45 minutes until pastry is nicely browned. Cool
in pan set on a rack for 2 minutes. Invert at once on a heatproof
serving plate. Serve warm.
Victoria Magazine
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New Orleans: Chicken and Sausage Gumbo
Serves 8
Used to thicken many sauces, a roux is a mixture of equal amounts
of cooked flour and oil. The cooking period varies, depending on
the color of roux required (a white or blond roux for a white sauce,
a brown roux for a brown sauce). Use a long-handled wooden spoon
or whisk when cooking, as the mixture is very hot. For this recipe,
make the roux as dark as possible, but if it develops dark specks,
it has burned and youll need to start over.
Filé powder is a seasoning made from the ground dried leaves
of the sassafras tree. Choctaw Indians from the Louisiana bayou
country are said to be the first users of this signature spice of
Creole cooking.
1-1/2 tsp. salt (divided use)
1 tsp. pepper (divided use)
1 tsp. garlic powder (divided use)
1 tsp. onion powder (divided use)
1-1/4 cup flour (divided use)
1 (2-3 lb.) chicken, cut up
1 cup oil (divided use)
1/2 to 1 lb. Andouille or smoked sausage, cut in _-inch pieces
1 cup chopped onions
1 cup chopped bell pepper
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup chopped okra (may use frozen)
8 cups chicken stock
1 Tbs. paprika
1 Tbs. filé powder
4 cups hot cooked rice
Mix 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon onion
powder. Rub on chicken pieces and set aside for 30 minutes.
Place 1/2 cup flour in a bag. Add chicken pieces and shake well
to coat the chicken. Heat 1/2 cup of oil in a heavy skillet and
fry the chicken until browned, about 5 minutes on each side. Remove
chicken and drain. In the same pan, sauté the sausage until
browned. Remove from heat, drain, and reserve with the chicken.
Mix 3/4 cup flour and 1/2 cup oil in a large, heavy-bottom saucepan
over medium heat and stir to mix. Continue cooking and stirring
until the roux is a dark chocolate brown. This can take 30 minutes.
If it begins to cook too fast, remove from heat and continue to
stir. Add chopped vegetables and stir thoroughly. Mixture will be
sticky. Cook for 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock 1 cup at a time
until it is well blended. Add remaining salt, pepper, onion powder,
paprika, filé powder, chicken pieces, and sausage. Simmer
for l-1/2 hours. Serve over rice.
Juan Garcia, The Dallas Morning News
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La Suiss: La Raclette
(Switzerland: Melted Cheese with Boiled Potatoes)
Serves 4
Raclette is both the name of a Savoyard cheese (from the region
of Savoie) and a traditional dish in which chunks of the cheese
were put on the hearth near a glowing fire. The firm rind forms
a frame for the warm, soft cheese. Diners gather around with plates,
knives, and forks in hand and a bowl of boiled potatoes. As the
surface of the cheese melts, it is scraped off, spread across the
potatoes, and eaten with gusto! Today, many people use electric
raclette grills, and each diner is given a stack of sliced raclette
to place into his or her assigned square, where it melts before
being spooned over potatoes.
12 boiling potatoes, such as Yukon Gold, Yellow Finn, or Red or
White Rose
1 tsp. salt, more to taste
1 to 1-1/2 lbs. Raclette cheese, cut into 4 equal portions
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
In a large saucepan, combine the potatoes and salt in enough water
to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat
to medium, and cook, uncovered, until potatoes easily pierce with
the tip of a sharp knife, about 20-25 minutes. Drain, cover to keep
warm, and set aside.
To serve, put a piece of cheese for each person on a separate heatproof
plate and set the plates near the fire with a cut side facing the
heat. Pass out more plates for the potatoes. While the cheese is
melting, each diner lightly mashes some of the potatoes and seasons
them to taste with salt and pepper. When the cheese is ready, each
diner scrapes the melted portion from his or her piece and spreads
it over the potatoes. The rind, left intact, provides a frame for
the melting cheese. After the scraping, the cheese is placed near
the fire to melt again.
Savoring France, by Williams Sonoma
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Le Tahiti: Poulet avec les Limettes
(Tahiti: Chicken Flavored with Limes)
Serves 6
2-1/2 lbs. chicken cut up, skin removed
Juice of 8 limes, divided
Zest of 1 lime, finely grated
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. white pepper
1 large sprig of fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp. dried
4 Tbs. peanut oil
2 Tbs. butter
1 cup chicken stock or canned broth
1 Tbs. sugar
1-1/2 Tbs. cornstarch dissolved in 2 Tbs. warm water
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 lime, thinly sliced into disks
Place chicken parts in a 1-gallon resealable plastic bag. Add half
of the lime juice, zest, salt, pepper, and thyme. Seal; massage
briefly. Marinate in the refrigerator 2 hours, turning bag occasionally.
Remove chicken pieces from marinade and pat dry with paper towels.
Reserve marinade. In a large non-reactive saucepan over medium high
heat, heat oil. Add chicken pieces and brown on all sides, turning
frequently. Pour in marinade and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove chicken to a platter and keep warm. On high heat, cook sauce
until it is reduced to about one cup. Reduce heat to a simmer and
add remainder of lime juice and sugar. Stir in cornstarch and whisk
until thickened. Take pan off heat and stir in cream. Pour sauce
over chicken. Garnish with lime slices.
Tradewinds and Coconuts, by Jennifer Brennan
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